How To Kill Horsetail Weeds Here’re Some Do’s & Don’ts (Top 6 Helpful Tips)

Cut down as much of the horsetail weed as you can in the early spring, before the pinkish-yellow domes that have the spores grow. Work cautiously to avoid spreading these spores, and place all the remains into the sealed plastic bag for disposing of it.

Apply the herbicide having glyphosate directly to the already cut weeds. It can typically kill just the top portion of the weed, and growth will happen again, so numerous applications will be essential to kill the horsetail weed.

Remember that horsetail is a very obstinate plant, with root networks that broaden numerous feet deep and can extend as far as twenty feet in diameter. As long as there’s even a small piece of root in your soil, horsetail can grow again. Killing it is a serious task, but it can be finished in a few methods.

Identification Of The Horsetail Weed:

The sterile stems that are found during the growing season are what is readily known as Common Horsetail. These are changeable in the habit though mainly between ten to fifty cm tall with the jointed segments around two to five cm long with the whorls of the side shoots at its segment joints; the major shoot is between three to five mm broad, and the side shoots have 1 mm diameter.

A few stems can have as many as twenty segments. The fertile ones look pretty distinct, off-white, ten to twenty-five cm tall and three to five mm diameter, with four to eight whorls of the brown scale leaves, and the brown apical spore cone ten to forty mm long and four to nine mm broad.

The Do’s: Methods On How You Can Kill The Horsetail Weeds

  • Cultivating Can Make Everything Worse:

Hoeing or cultivating for controlling the horsetail weed just does not work. The more you how or cultivate, the more it will spread because cultivating can slice the rhizomes of the plant into parts, and every small part of the cut rhizome left in your ground will produce a fresh plant.

And cultivation can also spread the horsetail tubers, the small bulbs produced on the rhizomes, tubers that just produce fresh plants when they’re detached from its rhizome, which is precisely what cultivating does.

Another cause that cultivating does not work is that the horsetail weed tubers tend to be formed deep in your ground, up to 150 cm down, well out of the cultivation tools’ range! If you ever make a decision you do desire to try to control the horsetail weed by cultivating your soil, at least make certain to clean the tools before utilizing them in some other place; otherwise, you risk spreading tubers or rhizomes parts by accident.

The rototiller can be the worst enemy of the horsetail-haters on this point: not just does it slice the rhizomes into several small parts and spread them, but a few almost always attach to the blades, moving them to the next garden section. A rototiller really requires a good cleaning after every usage!

  • Herbicides:

The majority of non-selective chemical herbicides accessible to the home gardeners (Roundup is the best recognized one) are just not useful against horsetail: it just does not absorb them. Yard herbicides are no better: they are created for Getting rid of the broad-leaved weeds, and few weeds have thinner leaves than the horsetail weed! One biological herbicide type, though, is quite efficient.

The vinegar-based herbicides like Weed B Gone or Eco clear will efficiently kill the horsetail foliage, but not the rhizomes. You, therefore, need to apply them again when your plant regenerates from the underground, so they’ll need a little follow-up. Note that it’s hard to utilize herbicides, even the biological ones, in a vegetable or flower garden without also killing the pleasing plants nearby by accident.

  • Liming Your Soil:

The belief that you can really control the horsetail weed by appending lime to your soil for rendering it more alkaline is just a horticultural myth. It can grow just fine in alkaline soils.

  • No Sun, No Horsetail!

You can, however, get rid of it by preventing it from doing photosynthesis. In simple words, by trimming off its only energy supply: the sunlight. It can also be done by using Hedge Trimmers. If you keep the leaves from being bare to the sun, your plant will rapidly stop spreading and will exhaust itself and ultimately die. One way of cutting off the sunlight is to cover the infested part using the black tarp simply.

You need to leave it in place for about twenty-four months for completely exhausting horsetail: if you eradicate it after only twelve months, there’s usually a little re-growth. This way is just very practical when you have decided to begin from scratch. It is extremely hard to utilize in the established yard with living plants (shrubs, and perennials, etc.). One way you can utilize it in the established yard is just to cut the green stems to your ground whenever you noticed them.

Unlike cultivating, which can really spread the rhizomes, it reasons them to weaken, as you will be averting the plant from doing photosynthesis. Begin early in the season and cut every time your plant regrows, and it’ll. By repeating every time a new shoot appears, your plant will ultimately die. However, this process takes a little effort: you might have to cut the horsetail weed back five or six times the 1st year, and a few stalks might still return in year two and ought to be cut as well.

Or attempt to densely plant with your taller plants: big perennials, tall ferns, or thick shrubs, anything that’ll cut off the sun. The horsetail weed does great in the full sun to the partial shade. It can weaken in the deep shade. By making dense shade, you will be making sure that it’ll eventually fade away. It might take two or three years to get full control, but right from the beginning, your taller plants will hide your horsetail from view.

  • The Dig & Sift Technique:

In this method, dig up all your horsetail weed plants in the area, putting the rhizomes in the trash (the plants can go into the compost). Now, empty the soil bed to thirty cm depth and run that through your soil sifter (simply made from the wooden frame covered with 6.4 mm cable mesh) before putting that back, removing all its rhizomes you locate.

Certainly, a few tubers might be left in your soil and manage to grow, forming the young plants. However, if you really pull them out within some weeks, they would not have much time to produce rhizomes, and you will be capable of stopping new pats from forming. Obviously, this technique is most practical for the localized infestations. It’ll be difficult to carry out on a huge scale.

  • The Laidback Gardener Technique:

Horsetail isn’t really a heavy feeder and, with the sparse foliage, it allows the majority of the sunlight through, so the plants can still get their share of sunlight.

And unlike the growing dense weedy plants like Aegopodium podagraria (goutweed), it hardly ever seems to crowd out the wanted plants, just to go well with them. To tell the truth, horsetail weed plants are really attractive. With its good-looking feathery foliage, it can really provide a misty and attractive look to the landscape. If you can learn to accept the horsetail weed as the ornamental, that’ll save you all the endeavor of trying to do away with it.

The Don’ts: Things You Should Avoid When Getting Rid Of The Horsetail Weeds

The horsetail wee is a unique plant because of its fern family membership and its huge root system. Numerous usual weed-killing tactics would not work when attempting to kill it. Do not try the following when attempting to get rid of the horsetail weed. These techniques will cost you money and time without getting rid of this plant.

  • Roundup:

Roundup doesn’t kill the horsetail weeds. Not just do the horsetail plants’ waxy leaves protect them from the most topical herbicides, your plant is also extremely resistant to Glyphosate, which is an active element in Roundup.

  • Ground Covering/Sheet Mulching:

The horsetail weed can thrive in the low-light and low-oxygen environment created by covering a space with thick mulch or plastic sheeting. Not just that, but because this plant can establish such huge root networks, it’ll locate uncovered places for growing. You might hold it back for the season with this technique,

but in due course, it’ll push up through the mulch, around its edges, or even start to grow underneath the ground covering.

  • Hand-Pulling:

Do not expect to kill it by hand. Its roots can grow to the depths of 5 feet. You would not get rid of this plant just by pulling its exposed part. If you follow this technique, you can expect to fight resurgent horsetail every year.

Do What Gets Rid Of The Horsetail Weeds For Good?

The horsetail weed can survive with very little oxygen or light, is resistant to Roundup, and has very deep roots, so it is really difficult to get rid of it. By utilizing the 2,4 D herbicide, or a nutgrass and sedge product like Sedgehammer, you can get rid of this plant completely. You can also damage it by utilizing compounds of vinegar. With proper soil management, drainage, and fertilization practices, you can really make the garden and lawn resistant to this plant.

usanewshome Team

VP Quality Control Murry Ruddiman, hailing from Sheet Harbour enjoys watching movies like Topsy-Turvy and Yoga. Took a trip to La Grand-Place and drives a Bugatti Royale Berline de Voyager.

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